From Comunista to Fashionista--Models Strut Down the Great Wall of China

When Qin Shi Huang erected the Great Wall of China in 221 BC, protection of the Chinese Empire's northern borders was what he had in mind. More than 2000 years later, Karl Lagerfeld had a different thought.

Last week, for the first time, the historic monument was transformed into the world's largest runway to showcase Fendi's Spring 2008 collection. The show, which was the grand finale to a four-day extravaganza, was attended by socialites, celebrities and fashionistas including Kate Bosworth, Zhang Ziyi, Tinsley Mortimer, Thandie Newton, ASW Members Julia Restoin-Roitfeld, Amanda Hearst, Fabiola Beracasa, Laird Borrelli, Billy Farrell (New York's ubiquitous shutterbug) and Zani Gugelmann who effusively recalls the show as being "a magical, surreal moment - surpassing all expectations I could have ever imagined."

Not everyone was so happy. ASW member and Executive Director of the Association for Asian Research, Erping Zhang, felt that "reducing a historical landmark such as the Great Wall to a commercial site for self promotion is not a decent idea."

As we march towards the 2008 Olympics, it is becoming increasingly clear that China, a politically socialist, yet seemingly economically capitalist nation is openly and visibly embracing American and European luxury brands, and placing them center stage.

It also seemed fitting that the Fendi celebrations overshadowed the Chinese Communist Party's Annual Convention, which was held during the same timeframe.

— Sabine Heller and Alonso Dominguez

Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Berlin S/S 08

Rudolf Dassler by Puma

Karl Lagerfeld got his start in Germany, but who’s next? The answer may come on July 13, when Berlin hosts their first official Fashion Week. Sponsored by Mercedes-Benz, the three day event at Brandenberg Gate promises a major fashion adventure for all involved. But who will come away with the most buzz? ASW tracks the style contenders…

Anglomania: Vivienne Westwood
Think of it as Marc by Marc for punks: Anglomania is the diffusion line by Vivienne Westwood and, starting this year, it gets its very own fashion show. Expect loads of plaid, heels and combat boots, and a general sense of beautiful mayhem as only Ms. Westwood can provide. And after her memorable public outing to the Life Ball in Vienna this May, the political messages she famously blares on the catwalk may move more towards AIDS relief. Still, if you find yourself without a show ticket, just memorize Vivienne’s famous slogan, ‘Ich bin kein terrorist’ – that’s ‘I am not a terrorist’ in German – to sail through to the front row.

Strenesse by Gabriele Strehle
There’s a reason why Julianne Moore and Victoria Beckham always look so sleek: they’re often wearing clothes by Gabriele Strehle. Like Missoni and Prada, the Strenesse label was created in the 1940s by Gabriele’s parents, but by 1970 their daughter had taken over the line as creative director. With her appointment came a new vision: a company dedicated to creating modern, wearable sportswear for real German women. The results were sleek sweater dresses, silk skinny pants cut 30 years before Dior Homme’s, and a neutral color palette of steel and chrome that still resonates with German design today. Though Gabriele is based in Berlin, this marks her first German fashion show – until last year, she showed her collection in the Bryant Park Tents in New York.

Rudolf Dassler by Puma
Sometimes sibling rivalry results in years of therapy, but in the case of the Dasslers, a fight between two brothers sparked two of the biggest names in fashion; while Adolf Dassler founded Adidas, his brother Rudolf created the sneaker empire, Puma. Celebrating its 60th birthday this year, Puma now has guest lines by Alexander McQueen, Philippe Starck, and Christy Turlington. Though Dassler himself passed away in the ’70s, his spirit lives on in a new range of blazers, jackets and pants that bridge the gap between sportswear and actual sports and seem to capture the German ideals of efficiency and beauty with a jagged urban flavor that nobody else seems to nail down. And since the show mixes men’s and women’s designs, you can expect some major eye candy on the Puma runway!

C-Neeon and the New Gen Celebration
Those familiar with London Fashion Week know that the New Generation show is the place to find up-and-coming talent – Christopher Kane memorably showed in their lineup before getting hired by Versace. Now the New Gen team brings their fashion flair to Berlin, where a giant final bash features five emerging designers in a catwalk battle for a cash award. Our pick? C-Neeon, the design duo whose draped jersey dresses and electric prints make them a cooler, misbehaved version of Marni or Miu Miu. With fans like Sienna Miller and Lily Allen, they already have some fashion traction.

— Faran Krentcil

Paris Fashion Week F/W 2007: Save The Best for Last

It's the final week of fashion month and, as they say, the best is often saved for last. As we all know, Paris is known for fashion and it rarely disappoints. The Autumn/Winter 07/08 prêt-a-porter collections, which opened on Sunday, February 25th with Balmain and Rick Owens, kicked off the week.

Rick Owens

Corto Moltedo

But the best is still yet to come. The fashion world has been holding its breath for its darlings, many of whom aren't even French, but whose names have become synonymous with French fashion: Karl Lagerfeld (German) for Chanel, Marc Jacobs (American) for Louis Vuitton, Albar Elbaz (Israeli) for Lanvin and Stefano Pilati (Italian) for Yves Saint Laurent. Nicolas Ghesquiére is the only Frenchman in charge of a French house, Balenciaga, which was created by the Spanish/Basque-born Cristóbal Balenciaga in Paris 70 years ago.

Balmain

Okay, so those all those names are a given, but who else is the fashion world murmuring about?

David Szeto — fashion's best-kept secret. And, no, he's not French either, he's from Canada, but has been living in Paris for the past 16 years, so he's more Parisian than most of the transplanted designers mentioned above — except, of course, for Mr. Lagerfeld, but that's only because he has a few decades on him.

Mr. Szeto is mostly a secret because, unlike his powdered-haired peer (and most of the "designers" these days), he doesn't seek out the limelight. His molded, folded, tucked and technically complicated designs are the product of many a late night in the atelier draping, knotting and pinning out different fabrications on his mannequin forms rather than posing for the paparazzi. He's just interested in making beautiful clothes that are original and interesting — new without being futuristic and weird. Mr. Szeto will be presenting his collection Under the Influence on March 4th.

So what will Mr. Szeto be Style.com-ing this week when he has time: "Balenciaga and Comme de Garcons..." he told ASW, but he admits his curiosity will probably have to wait to be indulged until after the 4th.

While Mr. Szeto is editing down his looks for Sunday afternoon, Erin Fetherston, another Paris-based (but American-born) designer can relax a bit and actually attend some shows — she already showed her whimsically cool collection a few weeks ago in New York. Who's shows is she looking forward to seeing? "All my friends," the buoyant, flaxen-haired designer told ASW at Ferdi, a tiny little tapas restaurant. "Haider Ackermann...some of the Japanese designers like Keita Maruyama, Junko Shumado and Tsumori Chisato. I'm also interested to see what the new designer at Chloe (Swede Paulo Melim Andersso) is doing — he came from Marni. And also Miu Miu."

Additionally, Miss Fetherston mentioned she'll be stopping by to see a vernissage at the Bon Marché, which features portraits of fashion people — her friend photographer Ellen von Unwerth is the poster-girl for the exhibition. Apparently supporting your friends is very in this season.

As is Corto Moltedo's collection of handbags. While fashion week in Paris is clearly clothes-centric, there are plenty of accessories to sort through as well, and this is a collection many editors won't be skimming over. Mr. Moltedo's parents founded Bottega Veneta back in the '70's, so his knowledge of leather goods and Italian style were pretty muchimbued at birth. His namesake line is indulgent with its bling-y gold star and "C" hardware and its range of ultra-modern shapes, but the real luxury is hidden in the details — think built in mirrors, a little slot for your credit card and a cell-phone-sized pocket inside each purse.

Mr. Moltedo says he's looking forward to seeing Viktor & Rolf, "It's always a surprise with them..." Last season the Dutch designers gave the audience a special little treat — a live performance by Rufus Wainwright as an array of sequined and mirrored ensembles worthy of "Dancing with the Stars" twinkled their way down the runway.

— Erin Skrypek