Thursday, March 27, 2008

Reinventing Sartorial Traditions: The New Savile Row

Behind an unmarked green door in Central London, a Savile Row tailor fitted a client with a bespoke suite on an early November afternoon. If you are picturing an interaction between a stuffy gentleman and a tight-lipped tradesman, think again.

The tailor in question was the maverick, Mark Powell, and the client was Dexy’s Midnight Runners frontman, Kevin Rowland. In front of the mirror, Rowland turned to admire his 1930s high-waisted, wide-leg Donegal tweed trousers and extreme cut-away jacket. “Mark understands me,” Rowland told ASW. “We can spend an hour talking about turn-ups.” Powell left the room only to return holding a remarkably similar pair of tweeds.

“I just made these for Keira Knightley,” he declared.

Welcome to the new Savile Row. The elegant London street, where bespoke craftsmen have been in business since 1733, is still the heart of exquisite British tailoring but it’s the younger players who are reinventing the meaning of bespoke. Their innovation is beckoning younger, hipper – and occasionally female – clients on to the Row to be measured up for luxe made-to-order suits.

Bespoke tailoring comes from the expression ‘be’spoken’ meaning that the tailor’s cloth has literally been spoken for by a client. When you walk into a bespoke tailor’s atelier, you are opting for a distinct set of craftsmanship principles: specific measurement technique, straight shoulders, a narrow syce, and a well-defined arm are standards.

A bespoke suit is perhaps one of the original proofs that a quality product takes time. A suit takes an average of six weeks and three fittings to finish because every detail is hand-sewn. But according to Ozwald Boateng, a Savile Row bespoke tailor, tradition needed an infusion of the new. “If traditions don’t evolve, they die,” said Boateng, who is also the creative director of Givenchy. “Savile Row wasn’t evolving.”

Boateng and other tailors, who are a part of the New Bespoke Movement, maintain painstaking bespoke techniques but challenge the old school bespoke firms’ subtle, traditional take on the standard suit. They have personalized bespoke even more, offering creative and more individualized looks. Below are the best of the Row’s new innovators.

Ozwald Boateng
The youngest tailor to open on Savile Row, Boateng talks like an artist, looks like a model and insists that he wants “to make all men beautiful.” Boateng’s look proves that brilliance and elegance go hand in hand. He skillfully uses bold colors in monotones and patterns to highlight his sharp suit lines. Clients include Daniel Day-Lewis, Laurence Fishburne and Keanu Reeves. Bespoke suits start at £3,000.
http://www.ozwaldboateng.co.uk

Mark Powell
Famed for his sharp three-piece suits, Powell also knows how to combine individuality and fine tailoring to create edgy, dapper looks. He understands women too and has dressed Keira Knightley, Naomi Campbell and Bianca Jagger. Powell’s male patrons include George Clooney and David Bowie. Suits start at around £1,500.
http://www.markpowellbespoke.co.uk

Kilgour
Established in 1882, Kilgour was revived in 2004 with Carlo Brandelli as the creative leader. Cary Grant, Fred Astaire, Jude Law and Daniel Craig are amongst the gentlemen who have donned Kilgour suits. The label distills sleek functionalism in its lean silhouettes. Expect charcoal mohair single button suits and jackets lined with polka-dotted silk. Look out for hand-blown Italian glass cufflinks in sky blue or powder pink and silk knit ties. Suits range from £1,500 to £5,000.
http://www.kilgour.eu/

Timothy Everest
From his beautifully restored retro gentleman’s atelier in Spitalfields, Everest crafts trim two-button slanted pocket jackets and plain trousers for the likes of Colin Firth, Gordon Brown and Tom Cruise. Everest, whose signature is his Spitalfields flower-patterned tie, also does bespoke denim. Suits start at £2,200.
http://www.timothyeverest.co.uk/

Richard James
Dandifying the traditional British menswear look, James’ suits are recognizable for their elegant elongation. The jackets are waisted with deeper side vents and come with one to three buttons. James isn’t afraid of color or texture, much to the delight of his fans, who include Pete Doherty, Hugh Dancy and Mick Jagger. Suits start at £2,700.
http://www.richardjames.co.uk/


— Taraneh Ghajar

Labels: , ,

Halloween in NY: ASW Scenesters Reveal Their Party Plans and Costumes

Valerie Boster
Who is she? Fashion 'It Girl' and Vogue Editor
Halloween plans? Cavalli party and a loft party in Brooklyn
Costume? Cocktail attire for Cavalli party and changing to a hipster outfit (American Apparel, head-to-toe) for Brooklyn

Fabian Basabe
Who is he? Handsome party boy and blogger
Halloween plans? Lance Bass' party in Hollywood then to a private dinner at le deux
Costume? He and his wife Martina are going as quarterback and cheerleader

Lauren Goodman
Who is she? The hip Fashion Director of Domino, also affectionately known as 'Spaghetti Legs'
Halloween plans? V Magazine Party and Cavalli party at Cipriani
Costume? A nurse, à la Richard Prince; maybe a Park Avenue nurse or Long Island nurse, depending on her mood.



Euan Rellie
Who is he? An investment banker, co-founder of Business Development Asia LLC, chairman of his wife's business, Lucy Sykes New York, and 'man about town'.
Halloween plans? Trick-or-treating in the Far West Village with kids, Heathcliff and Titus Rellie
Costume? Heathcliff Rellie and Euan Rellie will both be dressed as the Black Spider-Man from Spider-Man. Titus Rellie will be dressed as a cow. Lucy Sykes Rellie will be dressed as Wonder Woman.

Holly Doran
Who is she? Former Special Events Associate at Vogue and now Global Events Director at ASMALLWORLD
Halloween plans? Taking her daughter trick-or-treating (she's an octopus), then heading to the Cavalli/Cipriani/ASMALLWORLD Halloween Party.
Costume? She and friends are going as the Easy Spirit Basketball Girls: Short Shorts. Tube Socks. Tank Top. High Heels. And a basketball. Swish!

Brian Wolk and Claude Morais
Who are they? The Ruffian designers, a.k.a. the Ruffian Boys
Halloween plans? Maximillion Whitney's party
Costume? Cain and Abel

Marissa Anshutz
Who is she? The prettiest rising star in PR, Director at SYNDICATE
Halloween plans? V Magazine Halloween Party at the Gramercy Park Hotel Rose Bar (hosted by Gemma Ward) and then heading to The Box, NYC, where Sagatiba Cachaça is hosting – Blood Orange Sagatiba Capirinhas will be served to ensure that everyone gets their fill of the spirit of Brazil.
Costume? Lolita – lollipops will power her through the night as will looking through heart-shaped rose-colored glasses at the Halloween debauchery.

Joseph Varet
Who is he? Founder of LX.TV and on the Contemporary Art scene
Halloween plans? House party in LA
Costume? An IDF soldier

Karen Duffy
Who is she? Bubbly Fashion Consultant
Halloween plans? Taking her two-month-old little girl to the Museum of Natural History for the Twelfth Annual Halloween Festival, then heading to V Magazine party and ending up at Cipriani Downtown
Costume? A ladybug


Melissa Skoog
Who is she? Powerhouse and Vice President of PR at Prada
Halloween plans? Bronxville to trick-or-treat with my nine-year-old nephew, William.
Costume? William bought her costume a few weeks ago because he thought that it was perfect for her... red devil ears so that she can be the devil wearing Prada!

Melanie Charlton Fascitelli
Who is she? Founder and President of Clos-ette, Palm Beach princess, and author of Shop Your Closet: The Ultimate Guide to Organizing Your Closet with Style
Halloween plans? The Barish's Annual Halloween Party
Costume? A huge afro wig and short green dress – the auto-wash girl from the 70s movie, Car Wash

Di Petroff
Who is she? Social creature with a love of travel, freelance journalist
Halloween plans? The Police concert at Madison Square Garden
Costume? Tibi top and Michael Kors pants

Laird Borrelli
Who is she? Fashion Editor at Style.com
Halloween Plans? Neckface event, as she collects his work, which she finds pretty scary!
Costume? Tuleh dress with a print by Fabrizio

Luigi Tadini
Who is he? It boy, 24-year- old VP of Tadini Jewelers
Halloween plans? Heading to a bacchanalia Fellini style; the theme is Satyricon.
Costume? Something Fellini-esque

Tamsin Londsdale
Who is she? New Brit in town, founder of The Supper Club
Halloween Plans? Gold Bar
Costume? A flapper, but with a masculine take, so instead of a dress she will be wearing high waisted shorts, tuxedo shirt, black waistcoat, Marc Jacobs heels, black hat from Patricia Fields, so all black and white, apart from blood red nails and red fake eyelashes.



— Sabine Heller

Labels: , ,

Swarovski Fashion Rocks 2007

"Music is fundamental to complete an outfit," said Frida Giannini, Gucci's creative director at the Swarovski Fashion Rocks 2007 on Thursday night at London's Royal Albert Hall. The evening proved her point as 15 designers, including Gucci, sent models down the runway to tunes of their inspirational rock star collaborator. Armani paired with Alicia Keys while Chanel chose self-proclaimed Chanel fan, Lily Allen. Versace models strutted, bright as canaries, as they dodged a writhing Iggy Pop. Dolce & Gabbana preferred a loud and proud soundtrack from rapper Timbaland.


The evening's star quotient was exceptionally high. Uma Thurman, who wore a stunning crystal-scattered Valentino gown and Samuel Jackson, in a series of Armani suits, played hosts while Gwyneth Paltrow presented the evening's highlight: a lifetime achievement award to her dear friend, Valentino, who recently announced his retirement. "I want to leave when the party is still full of people," said Valentino of his half-century in the fashion world. "This is very emotional for me." The audience stood as Valentino accepted the award and later his fans cooed over his talent. "Valentino is frills, bows and dots," said social Tamara Beckwith, who arrived in full-length red Valentino dress. " He makes you feel like a million dollars."

Other surprises included the unconventional Scottish designer Christopher Kane's runway show with Beth Ditto and The Gossip. Ditto has a reputation for making fashion 'don'ts' - like spandex and horizontal stripes - into fashion 'dos.' Kane fully supported her with a magenta crystal skirt suit. Ditto kicked her shoes into the audience during the last extended shout of the performance.

"Chris Kane and the Gossip were definitely the stars of the show," agreed Charlotte Hamlett and Miguel Pascal, ASW members who moved on to the Kane after-party at Paper club on Regent Street. Other attendees also dispersed into the night. Jasmine Guinness, Elizabeth Saltzman, Harvey Weinstein, Calum Best, Courtney Love and Princess Beatrice headed to the official after-party at Baglioni.

Bungalow 8 attracted the sophisticated set, which included members of the Armani group while Punk Club drew fashionista and rock offspring Peaches Geldof. The parties continued well into the wee hours – evidence, if any was needed, that fashion indeed rocked.

— Taraneh Ghajar

Labels: , , , ,

From Comunista to Fashionista--Models Strut Down the Great Wall of China

When Qin Shi Huang erected the Great Wall of China in 221 BC, protection of the Chinese Empire's northern borders was what he had in mind. More than 2000 years later, Karl Lagerfeld had a different thought.

Last week, for the first time, the historic monument was transformed into the world's largest runway to showcase Fendi's Spring 2008 collection. The show, which was the grand finale to a four-day extravaganza, was attended by socialites, celebrities and fashionistas including Kate Bosworth, Zhang Ziyi, Tinsley Mortimer, Thandie Newton, ASW Members Julia Restoin-Roitfeld, Amanda Hearst, Fabiola Beracasa, Laird Borrelli, Billy Farrell (New York's ubiquitous shutterbug) and Zani Gugelmann who effusively recalls the show as being "a magical, surreal moment - surpassing all expectations I could have ever imagined."

Not everyone was so happy. ASW member and Executive Director of the Association for Asian Research, Erping Zhang, felt that "reducing a historical landmark such as the Great Wall to a commercial site for self promotion is not a decent idea."

As we march towards the 2008 Olympics, it is becoming increasingly clear that China, a politically socialist, yet seemingly economically capitalist nation is openly and visibly embracing American and European luxury brands, and placing them center stage.

It also seemed fitting that the Fendi celebrations overshadowed the Chinese Communist Party's Annual Convention, which was held during the same timeframe.

— Sabine Heller and Alonso Dominguez

Labels: , , , , , ,

London Fashion Week S/S 08

Saying that London has a little Fashion Week is like saying Britain is a small country: What it lacks in actual size, it makes up for in power. How else can you explain the appearance of Kate Moss, the return of Matthew Williamson, and the recurring front row seat of Anna Wintour, all in five days?

Our must-discuss moments of the week are below…

The Front Row at Allegra Hicks
Some catwalks in New York are billed as "socialite shows," but Allegra's front row lineup beat them all. India Hicks, Rufus Abermarle and his wife Sally, Lulu Guinness and her daughter Madeleine, and Sophie Fiennes all took their place out front, as breezy chiffon gowns based on Botticelli paintings floated by. Don't think they won't appear in Tatler next year!

Luella Bartley's Homecoming Dance
It's only fitting that London's party dress queen gets a big bash after her fashion show, especially if it's her first UK runway in years. Luella's late-night bash at Claridge's didn't disappoint, with Poppy Delevigne, Peaches Geldof, Erin O'Conner, and Kelly Osbourne swinging into the hotel for a dance.

Christopher Kane's Denim Corset
How do you follow up pleated leather dresses? With denim corsets and tailored snake-print chiffon, of course. That was the menu for Christopher Kane's latest collection, but even more impressive – a big chunk of the clothes had been made just days before the show, after pieces from Kane's studio were stolen in a robbery!

Prince at Matthew Williamson
The lights dimmed, and suddenly a spotlight: We all saw Prince, smack in the middle of the front row, strutting from the audience up to the runway. A microphone appeared, backup singers emerged, and voila: a secret performance of "Chelsea Girl" was taking place, and only the London fashion pack got to see. Considering the show was held at 11 am, it was the wakeup call everyone needed – including the models, who mouthed Prince lyrics during the show!

Gareth Pugh's Balloon Pop
Editors were scared out of their seats on Sunday night, as fashion trickster Gareth Pugh began his show with a bang – literally. He popped a giant balloon filled with glitter onstage, causing everyone to jump before settling in for a blackly beautiful collection of sheath dresses and silver capes. There were still the usual theatrics – a mink stole sewn to look like dead mice, giant tribal headdresses – but unlike past Pugh performances, you could actually wear things from this collection.

The ISSA Acrobat
After a series of pretty capes and caftans, ISSA's real spectacle began on the catwalk: an acrobat walked onto the runway wearing the label's trademark butterfly print, and quickly swung and twirled herself into a trapeze act. The audience gasped, but we weren't surprised – what's London Fashion Week without some over-the-top magic?

— Faran Krentcil

Labels: , , ,

Milan Fashion Week S/S08

The high-heeled-erati is still recovering from an action-packed week of moda in Milan. The capital of fashion-as-commerce introduced a tighter schedule this season, fitting the big shows into four days instead of the usual five. Stefano Tonchi of the New York Times commented, "Young designers were pushed aside, and shows happened so close together that no one will remember any of the clothes.” Despite the fast pace (and resulting two hour delays), Anna Wintour publicly expressed her appreciation for the change, which was made at her behest.

The runways themselves were filled with a mix of varied hemlines, shapes and decades. All in all, Milan was much less 70s than New York, but still very sportswear driven. In general we saw safari suits, full pants, three-piece-suit- silhouettes, shorts-jumpers and one-piece pants jumpers, as well as layers and layers of chiffon, organza and tulle.

Here are some highlights:

Prada
It was inspiring to see an idea and not another cropped jacket. Miuccia Prada designed a fantasy universe that was part Japanese cartoon fairy, part Virgin Suicides.

Versace
Versace showed the best red carpet looks we have seen yet this season--jersey gowns in colors like shocking pink and intense periwinkle. The show music was fantastic--loud and bold. And the girls really worked it, all with Donatella hair.

Dolce & Gabanna
Dolce & Gabanna was a winner, a little showy and crazy but with beautiful painterly influences.

D&G
This was the first good show in a few seasons for Stefano and Domenico's diffusion line, which they recently brought back in house. It was a mix of Ossie Clark style bell dresses, floral prints and jean bell bottom suit, vest, and floppy hat looks that were right out of Taxi Driver.

Gucci
Frida Giannini went 50s-- Rizzo in Grease: full skirts, scarves, tough-girl tiny leather jackets and cropped pants. It was all black and white with a choice of two colors: yellow and salmon pink. The accessories were gorgeous; patent booties with contrast piping, graphic sandals, and great big clutches (definitely the bag shape of the season) with resin cut like oversize crystal.

Bottega Veneta
Bottega "When Your Own Initials Are Enough" Veneta was very trench coat-y with tea length hems that were quite unflattering. Designer Tomas Maier created some beautiful corset pieces in evening wear. He continued the boudoir theme in accessories, switching up the House's woven leather for woven satin on high-heeled sandals.

Fendi
Fendi was strong with a third beautiful season for Karl Lagerfeld. He worked a circle motif, first into collar and skirt shapes, and then onto the garments, tracing bulls-eyes made of colorful appliquéd silks and heavy beading. Somewhere in the process, he created the season's it-belt, with a geometric buckle in mixed stones like marble and tiger's eye.

Marni
Consuelo Castiglioni is a pioneer, and widely copied. Although she continued with Marni's signature bubble-shapes, which almost everyone else has left behind, she did move ahead beautifully with a rich color palette and sleek patent shoes and bags--a season standout.

Jil Sander
Raf Simmons' collection for Jil Sander was exquisite. Sharp lines, pure surprising colors, sheer layers and new shapes. It was practically a revolution in dressmaking — a must see!

Emilio Pucci
Pucci looked like a Matthew Williamson collection with geometric, colorful, 70s prints. Fun, but after the designer's tour-de-force for house last season, it felt a little hollow.

Burberry
Christopher Bailey has been tearing it up at Burberry so editors and buyers alike expected the collection to be a favorite--chock full of new, but ever pretty, ideas. This season was very 80s: sexy Alaia meets Gianni Versace, neoprene in neon, and tons of densely ruched chiffon. The theme was the warrior, with every look belted with thin hardwear heavy belts. There were also stunning couture looks of banded-together silk.

Roberto Cavalli
A beautiful collection of Victorian nightgowns, child-like floral blocked prints and Romantic hair came down the runway. It has taken years for the fashion crowd to come back around to Mr. Cavalli's aesthetic of historical-decadence, but he is back.

— Staff

Labels: , ,

Models and Celebs Take to the Catwalk for UK Food Relief

Naomi Campbell is planning to give fashion-faithfuls some bang for their buck when she presents Fashion for Relief, a benefit fashion show to be held in London later this week.

Clothing from world renowned fashion houses, including Burberry, Vivienne Westwood, Alexander McQueen, Dior and Dolce & Gabbana will be paraded by celebrities and legendary models alike, including Elle Macpherson, Leah Wood, Daphne Guinness, David Furnish, Jodie Kidd, Lily Cole, Elizabeth Jagger, Yasmin Le Bon, Rosario Dawson and others.

And with tickets available to the public at prices ranging from 100 pounds to 750 pounds (for front row VVIP tickets), attendees can be sure their money is supporting more than just their passion for fashion. One hundred per cent of the proceeds from the show will go towards the Rotary Flood Disaster Appeal, which assists communities in the affected flood districts of the UK where flood damage is currently estimated at 3 billion pounds.

As if that weren’t reason enough to secure your seat at this fashion extravaganza, VVIP ticket holders will also walk away with goodie bags featuring such covetable items as a Garrard pendant, a Mulberry wallet and a Missoni and Naomi Campbell fragrance.

The show will take place at the Natural History Museum in London on September 20, at the end of London Fashion Week. Tickets are available through Ticketmaster, at www.ticketmaster.co.uk or by calling +44 08702434455.

— Laura Jakobovits

Labels: , , , ,

NY Fashion Week S/S 08

It's been a week of clothes and catwalks in New York, as almost a hundred designers released their creations at Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week.

There was good. There was bad. There was Victoria Beckham. And then there was aSmallWorld, watching for haute glimmers and high hems from the front row.

Below are our favorite runway picks, plus a healthy dose of buzz - after all, what good is a great dress if nobody's talking about it?

Marc Jacobs
America's moody genius threw a fashion curveball by showing his looks in reverse - first came shredded chiffon dresses, then the poplar daywear in Crayola colored solids and a memorable rugby t-shirt gown stamped with varsity numbers. But what will the fashion crowd remember more - that the collection was messy magic or that the show started two hours late?

Rodarte
For a pair of suburban sisters, Kate and Laura Mulleavy cause a lot of drama. Witness the critical chaos that ensued last year when their Rodarte collection fiercely divided the style community. Vogue hailed them as a revelation and a revolution, while The Times thought their pieces to be pillowcases. This season, with Camilla Nickerson styling, we saw more control in their gowns and rumpled pants that, frankly, looked incredible.

Sari Gueron
Most of these pieces were stamped with a giant 'must have' - sharply- shaped dresses you could pull on in a second; tailored nylon jackets that skimmed the body like cocktail wear. The casually cool surfer girl has found a perfect balance, fusing her bohemian flair with a hint of understated sexiness.

Ruffian
With their trademark whipped shoulders and a new floral print, Brian Wolk and Claude Morais brought more color and sculptured shapes to their runway than ever before. With nods to Southern glamour, avant-garde art, and precocious uptown youth - as seen in several pairs of lush fabric leggings - the clothes garnered particular praise from social starlets like Plum Sykes.

Katy Rodriguez
Styled by Madonna's personal clothes horse, Arianne Phillips, the Katy Rodriguez collection showed LA style at its best - glamorous, blackly beautiful, and too cool to care. Girls particularly swooned for the shiny, tight cocktail dresses in jeweled greens and blues, though they'll have to act now - Katy's pack of starlet fans will surely swipe them fast for their red carpet regime.

Benjamin Cho
Theatrics are expected from this downtown designer, but dangerously clean jackets and dresses were the main course on his runway. Especially admired were a series of sheaths infused with amethysts, which glowed at the heart like a stylish superhero emblem. The scene before the show was just as electric, with Tara Subkoff and Chloe Sevigny arriving in teetering heels, and Proenza Schouler's Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez chatting with The Times' Cathy Horyn in the front row - she's a fan of Ben's; they're old friends from Parsons. The show had an easygoing atmosphere, but it might prove the turning point in Cho's career - he's already been plucked by the L.A. brand Thrive to work as their new designer.

— Faran Krentcil

Labels: , , , , , ,

Copenhagen Fashion Week

Lavin

Jens Laugesen

Denmark, the world’s ninth largest exporter of fashion, recently celebrated its established and newest design talent with a packed show and party schedule at Copenhagen Fashion Week 2007 (CPW), sponsored by Moët & Chandon.

More than 50,000 designers, buyers and press attend CFW, Northern Europe’s largest fashion event, which happens twice a year in February and August.

This August the shows, which were perfectly timed, proved wrong the widely-held belief that Danish fashion and Scandinavian design has to be minimalistic or classic.

The silhouette seemed to be very important to most designers and the ultra-hip label Baum und Pferdgarten (a brand stocked by Helena Christensen in her New York store, Butik) was no exception. At the National Gallery of Art, the somewhat rebellious design duo displayed a collection with a focus on the waist, oversized puffy sleeves and crocus-shaped skirts. This was the only show attended by HRH The Crown Princess of Denmark who recently gave birth to a daughter, HRH Princess Isabella.

Girlfriend of Prince Joachim of Denmark, French-born Marie Cavallier, sat front row at the By Malene Birger show, which had both slim and lavish silhouettes sliding down the runway on the Friday evening. The show was divided into two acts: the first showed a Riviera Chic collection with long pants, slim vests, short loose dresses and giant white sunglasses. Act two was built up around her tailored collection: Salon by Malene Birger. The show revealed Malene’s experimentation with different shapes and lines, which were very elegant and sophisticated. Black, white, gunmetal and drops of coral-orange were the colors of the parade.

In July, Giles Deacon played DJ at a London party celebrating the winners of the Fashion Forward Designers of 2007. Dane Jens Laugesen, who was Fashion Forward’s winning designer, presented his collection for the first time at CFW. His designs were classic in solid black and white with a strong symmetrical and graphic look. The YSL/Chalayan-esque show closed with Danish über beauty and top model, Lykke May Andersen, in a low-cut dreamy evening gown.

ASW was also represented at CPW by designer Bruun Bjorn whose label, Bruuns Bazaar, was one of the largest shows of the week. ‘City casual’ was the theme, in black, white and burnt colors. Lykke May Andersen also graced Bjorn’s spring/summer 2008 show with her mesmerizing runway presence.

In six months the fashion circus returns with even more spectacular shows and even more Moët-fuelled parties. Stay tuned.

— Pily Morten Maks Ottesen

Labels: , , ,

Lisa Cant

Interview

How do you use ASW and what's your favorite site feature?

Lisa Cant : Just to keep in touch with people I don’t see that often. And I love looking at everyone’s picture.

What's your best ASW anecdote?

LC: While I was on a photo shoot for Vogue magazine, the photographer received an invite for ASW. He ended up stopping the shoot for three quarters of an hour, exploring the site and creating a profile, with the help of the Vogue assistant. The rest of us just watched as he was more interested in the site than shooting pictures!

What are some of the recent advertising campaigns in which you've appeared?

LC: I'm in the new Juicy Couture perfume and clothing ads. I’m also in the Van Cleef & Arpels ads.

You walk in many of the top fashion shows. Name some of your favorite fashion designers with whom you have worked.

LC: In New York Michael Kors is so much fun to work with; the show is always so exciting and his clothes are amazing!

What makes you happiest?

LC: Sleeping in late.

Where is your favorite travel destination?

LC: Costa Rica… surfing and the beach!

What is your greatest vice?

LC: I love sleeping 12 hours straight.

What are your three favorite restaurants?

LC: Il Violino (NYC), Mezzogiorno (NYC) and Café Ruc (Paris)

What are your three favorite hotels?

LC: Amanpuri Resort (Phuket), Hotel Westminster (Paris) and Cerulean Tower Tokyu Hotel (Tokyo)

What is your favorite museum or gallery?

LC: The Metropolitan Museum of Art

What is your favorite beach?

LC: Tamarindo Beach, Costa Rica

What film has had the greatest effect on you? Why?

LC: I always watch Legends of the Fall because it was filmed where I’m from in Canada and it’s nice to see the mountains.

What is your favorite book?

LC: Watership Down by Richard Adams

What cause is closest to your heart? Why?

LC: I sponsor a child in Egypt through Plan USA. It’s a great charity because you can see the individual you are helping and send him little presents throughout the year.

What's one thing you would like to change about yourself?

LC: I would like to do more in my spare time. But it’s so nice just relaxing with friends...

What's the craziest thing you've ever done?

LC: I lost my passport in Paris and post 9/11, managed to fly to New York with an American birth certificate and an expired Canadian learner's license! I ended up spending five hours in US customs, but I made it!

Who is your favorite historical figure?

LC: Sir Isaac Newton

What upsets you the most?

LC: Cancelled flights

What is your favorite bar or club?

LC: Gramercy Bar in NYC

What gadget can't you live without?

LC: I would have said my BlackBerry; however, I just managed three weeks without it in Asia. So… my iPod.

What are you most afraid of?

LC: Mice and rats

Were do you love to shop?

LC: Miu Miu, Intermix and Barneys

What are the top three songs on your iPod right now?

LC: Jenny Was a Friend of Mine' by The Killers
'Have You Ever Seen The Rain?' by Creedence Clearwater Revival
'My Love' by Justin Timberlake


—- Sabine Heller

Labels: , , , ,

Super Saturday


YSL

Fabiola and The Tinz


The word 'super' barely did the 10th annual Super Saturday garage sale extravaganza any justice. With everyone from Alberta Ferretti to Zac Posen flogging their wares under the tents at the field of the Hamptons' Nova Ark Project, it was more of a case of a super-size Saturday of unadulterated shopping. The sale, hosted by designer and summer Hamptons denizen Donna Karan, is clearly no ordinary garage sale. Before even eyeing up a single pair of cut-price Helmut Lang pants, attendees shelled out $400 for general admission tickets. It was all for an excellent cause since every cent went directly to the Ovarian Cancer Research Fund.

ASW members such as Petra Nemcova, Fabiola Beracasa and Jason Beckman were on hand to shop up a storm for charity. The ASW contingent was also represented on the other side of stalls. We noted that Stacy Bendet's Alice + Olivia and Sulaika Zarrouk and Lily Rafii's Felix Rey was doing brisk business all afternoon. Rachel Zoe, Christy Turlington and Petra Nemcova were amongst the other attendees who stalked the grassy aisles looking for bargains. Guests who could tear themselves away from the rails of Zac Posen suits, Diane von Furstenberg dresses and Turnbull and Asser shirts took time out to enjoy free manicures, gelato and psychic readings in surrounding tents.

Meanwhile, as closing time approached, retailers dropped prices to the floor, resulting in some super, super bargains. Vera Wang gowns, for example, were going for a mere $50. By the end of the day, most guests had amassed an impressive collection of shopping bags but there was still more to take home. At the gate, guests with the right wristband received a weighty extra-large goodie bags.

— Sabine Heller

Labels: , , , , ,

Olivia Chantecaille Gives ASW the Scoop on Valentino's 45th Bash



Valentino Garavani toasted his 45 glamorous years in fashion with a lavish 3-day fete in Rome. Everyone from Iranian Empress Farah Diba Pahlavi to Mick Jagger turned up to toast the designer’s work. ASW member and Valentino muse Olivia Chantecaille kept a diary on her Blackberry of the sumptuous celebrations

I just knew that the Valentino dream weekend had truly begun when I flew into Rome sitting next to Rupert Everett and Joan Collins. The ' friendly skies' had just become the 'glamorous skies'! When we landed, there was sunshine and a perfect temperature of 85 degrees. Somehow, Valentino had managed to conjure up ideal weather while the rest of Europe suffered through clouds and unseasonably cold days. Bravo!

Valentino a Roma: 45 Years of Style Exhibition Opening at Ara Pacis Museum
I arrived at my hotel to find a welcome note from Valentino himself and some very thoughtful goodies. He definitely knows how to make a woman feel special and this was only the beginning of a weekend filled with wonderful surprises.

I slipped into a gray satin couture cocktail dress with a beaded halter neck and headed off to the Ara Pacis Museum to view the most spectacular exhibit celebrating 45 years of Valentino’s creations. The man himself was at the door to greet me and other guests. I then ran into my darling friend, Carlos Souza, Valentino’s PR chief and my friend and Vanity Fair fashion editor, Alexis Bryan, who introduced me to the very dashing Tom Ford. I was very happy to find that my New York friends had all arrived at the same time - we are clearly on the same party clock! The group included Alison Sarofim, Carlos Mota, and ASW members Andrew Saffir, Daniel Benedict, Lauren Davis and the Santo Domingo boys.

The exhibit was the most exquisite fashion display ever. Each room was devoted to a color. The museum’s clean and modern look created the ideal backdrop for the 300 intricate Valentino creations. Guests at the opening included Vogue editor Anna Wintour, Claire Danes, Elle Macpherson, Patrick Demarchelier, Sarah Jessica Parker, and Eva Mendes.

Temple of Venus dinner
After the opening, we headed en masse to the Temple of Venus, which overlooks the Colosseum. It was lit in Valentino red. Dinner was a spectacular buffet of fresh mozzarella di buffalo and the lightest pasta that virtually melted in your mouth. Low tables and cushioned seats were strewn amongst the ancient ruins. I sat with Alexis Bryan, Anna Wintour, Shelby Bryan and Patrick Demarchelier. Everyone was elated by the surreal perfection of the evening.

A sudden spray of fireworks turned our attention to the sky where a glowing crescent moon was poised above the Colosseum. We were treated to a magnificent display as color after color of lights burst into the night. There was a momentary pause and a dancer, suspended on strings, twirled across the sky. She was joined by more dancers in red gowns, which created impressive silhouettes against the changing colors of the Colosseum. A giant balloon decorated in Valentino’s name scattered these fairies and floated into the sky. The spectacle was completed with a fireworks finale that was surely worthy of the gods.

The Winter Couture show
The next day, we were invited to attend the Valentino winter couture show at 5 p.m. Set in a stunning gallery, the walls were lined with the most tremendous photos of Valentino’s gowns. One of my favorites was an image of Linda Evangelista in a strapless dress with a bustier of white roses. Meanwhile, all of Valentino’s ladies from Hollywood to Dubai eagerly awaited the show, fanning themselves with Valentino fans to combat the heat. Uma Thurman strode in wearing a long sleeved white sequin dress that flattered in every way imaginable.

The show was a dream worth waiting for. Every look was utterly exquisite. At the end, the crowd jumped to its feet and Valentino came out to thunderous applause. Before he had made it to the end of the runway, his business partner, Giancarlo Giametti embraced him warmly. Both men had tears in their eyes. Everyone ambled out into the sunlight slightly drunk with the emotions that reverberated in the hall.

Villa Borghese gala
I wore a Valentino gown in rose for the evening’s gala at the Villa Borghese. Inside the palazzo, guests ambled around milk white statues - my favorite was Bernini’s Apollo and Daphne - in galleries of marble and painted walls and ceilings that evoked thoughts of the Sistine chapel.

Then, we made our way on to the red carpet and joined guests such as Mick Jagger and L'Wren Scott, Rachel Zoe and Matthew Broderick on a terrace where Valentino greeted us with open arms for the grand finale of the weekend’s festivities. Each woman looked more glamorous than the next in her Valentino gown, sipping champagne and chatting with the designer.

A set of big doors then opened to a dining room painted with the rich colors of Shanghai red and gold bamboo. Guests poured into the hall for the elaborate banquet. After the dinner, Giancarlo Giametti sauntered on to the stage to say a few touching words about the man of honor and introduced a short film of Valentino hard at work creating his magic.

After the film ended, the curtain dropped for a beat and then lifted again to reveal Annie Lennox seated at the piano in a shimmering black Valentino dress. She serenaded the crowd with her powerful voice, which almost blew the roof off the palazzo. Afterwards, the DJ took over and got everyone dancing non-stop for five hours, which could only happen in Rome. It was a definitely a night to remember!

Photo Credits:© Billy Farrrel/PatrickMcmullan.com

Labels: , , , ,

Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Berlin S/S 08

Lavin

Rudolf Dassler by Puma

Karl Lagerfeld got his start in Germany, but who’s next? The answer may come on July 13, when Berlin hosts their first official Fashion Week. Sponsored by Mercedes-Benz, the three day event at Brandenberg Gate promises a major fashion adventure for all involved. But who will come away with the most buzz? ASW tracks the style contenders…

Anglomania: Vivienne Westwood
Think of it as Marc by Marc for punks: Anglomania is the diffusion line by Vivienne Westwood and, starting this year, it gets its very own fashion show. Expect loads of plaid, heels and combat boots, and a general sense of beautiful mayhem as only Ms. Westwood can provide. And after her memorable public outing to the Life Ball in Vienna this May, the political messages she famously blares on the catwalk may move more towards AIDS relief. Still, if you find yourself without a show ticket, just memorize Vivienne’s famous slogan, ‘Ich bin kein terrorist’ – that’s ‘I am not a terrorist’ in German – to sail through to the front row.

Strenesse by Gabriele Strehle
There’s a reason why Julianne Moore and Victoria Beckham always look so sleek: they’re often wearing clothes by Gabriele Strehle. Like Missoni and Prada, the Strenesse label was created in the 1940s by Gabriele’s parents, but by 1970 their daughter had taken over the line as creative director. With her appointment came a new vision: a company dedicated to creating modern, wearable sportswear for real German women. The results were sleek sweater dresses, silk skinny pants cut 30 years before Dior Homme’s, and a neutral color palette of steel and chrome that still resonates with German design today. Though Gabriele is based in Berlin, this marks her first German fashion show – until last year, she showed her collection in the Bryant Park Tents in New York.

Rudolf Dassler by Puma
Sometimes sibling rivalry results in years of therapy, but in the case of the Dasslers, a fight between two brothers sparked two of the biggest names in fashion; while Adolf Dassler founded Adidas, his brother Rudolf created the sneaker empire, Puma. Celebrating its 60th birthday this year, Puma now has guest lines by Alexander McQueen, Philippe Starck, and Christy Turlington. Though Dassler himself passed away in the ’70s, his spirit lives on in a new range of blazers, jackets and pants that bridge the gap between sportswear and actual sports and seem to capture the German ideals of efficiency and beauty with a jagged urban flavor that nobody else seems to nail down. And since the show mixes men’s and women’s designs, you can expect some major eye candy on the Puma runway!

C-Neeon and the New Gen Celebration
Those familiar with London Fashion Week know that the New Generation show is the place to find up-and-coming talent – Christopher Kane memorably showed in their lineup before getting hired by Versace. Now the New Gen team brings their fashion flair to Berlin, where a giant final bash features five emerging designers in a catwalk battle for a cash award. Our pick? C-Neeon, the design duo whose draped jersey dresses and electric prints make them a cooler, misbehaved version of Marni or Miu Miu. With fans like Sienna Miller and Lily Allen, they already have some fashion traction.


— Faran Krentcil

Labels: , , ,

Christian Dior's 60th Anniversary: Couture Collection

YSL

Helena Christensen

When it comes to a 60th anniversary celebration of Dior with 10 years of artistic direction from John Galliano, it’s hard to imagine anything but an entirely opulent and lavish affair. And that it was, as a star-studded list of guests descended upon the Versailles Palace near Paris on Monday July 2, for an evening no-doubt reminiscent of the parties once hosted there by Louis XIV.

The sound of uninvited hopefuls pleading with security for entry was drowned out by a flamenco singer welcoming guests in the Orangerie garden. The Orangerie, originally built by Louis XIV to house his fruit trees in the winter time, was the site of the ball and decorated in a theme of ‘sweeping romance’. Moroccan tents, crystal chandeliers, silver trees, silver chairs and mythological animals on pedestals contributed to the hedonistic and utterly indulgent feel of the evening.

In honor of Dior, Galliano presented an extravagant autumn/winter haute couture collection inspired by the works of the great artists, including Picasso and da Vinci.
“To celebrate the 60th anniversary of the house of Christian Dior, we explored Mr Dior’s first collection, not of fashion, but of his favorite artists,” Galliano explained to his audience.

Catwalk super models of past and present, including Linda Evangelista and Naomi Campbell, showered Galliano with affection as his excited audience gave him a standing ovation – not only for this show but for Dior and Galliano’s outstanding contributions to the fashion world.

As the night continued, guests including Pedro Almodóvar, Sofia Coppola and Gisele Bündchen tore up the dance floor to tunes from DJ Jeremy Healy, sound designer of all Galliano shows. Others, including Juliette Binoche, Monica Belucci, Eva Green, Kate Hudson, Jessica Alba, Karen Mulder and Charlize Theron, reveled in the ambience and theme of all things neo-romantic.

If one message came from the evening that kicked of Paris Couture Week 2007, it was that haute couture – though previously pronounced dead by many critics – is most definitely back!


— Laura Jakobovits and Benjamin Cassan

Labels: , , , , ,

Wednesday, March 26, 2008

'King of Fashion' Poiret Reigns at NY's Met Ball

Fabiola Beracasa, Tinsley Mortimer

Naomi Campbell

New York’s social set never wants for an excuse to get dressed up. But of all the city’s spring balls and parties, there is no event more decadent or debonair than the Costume Institute Ball, which is the event of the social season. This year’s ball, held on Monday, May 7 at the Metropolitan Museum of Art, provided an additional opportunity for a bit of fancy-dress since the evening celebrated the flamboyant exoticism of the early 1900s French couturier Paul Poiret, who is the subject of a special summer exhibition at the Met.

At the Costume Institute Ball, Poiret’s spirit was alive and well in dresses chosen by guests from the worlds of fashion, entertainment and media. Miuccia Prada paid homage to Poiret’s feather fetish by wearing a skirt she designed using plastic orange feathers. Vogue’s American editor-at-large, Hamish Bowles wore a custom-made absinthe-colored Tom Ford robe, which would not have looked out of place at the fabulous Oriental-themed parties that Poiret used to throw in his time.

Poiret’s great contributions to fashion included the suspender belt, his free-flowing pantaloons and dresses and the brassiere, which liberated women from the constraints of corsets. He famously said, “Yes, I freed the bust, but I shackled the legs.”

Among the ASW members who received highly-prized invites to the ball were Naomi Campbell, who wore a short black Azzedine Alaïa dress adorned with black feathers and Lauren Davis, who shone in a strapless lemon gown by Nina Ricci. Julia Restoin-Roitfeld (in Phi), Fabiola Beracasa (in Givenchy Couture) and Olivia Chantecaille (in Valentino Couture) were also amongst the lucky members present. Chantecaille said of the evening, “The party was incredibly glamorous; everywhere you looked there was something and someone more beautiful than the next. The Met Ball is like the Oscars of New York.”

Kipton Cronkite, Olivia Palermo Arden Wohl Byrdie Bell

Lauren Davis

Kate Bosworth

Olivia Chantecaille

Carlos Mota, Zani Gugelmann

Anna Wintour, Cate Blanchett, and Nicolas Ghesquiere

Poiret’s penchant for brightly-hued colors received a nod from Rosario Dawson, Cameron Diaz and Lucy Liu who chose rich maroon gowns for the occasion. Others – including actress Elizabeth Banks – wore dresses that featured Poiret’s favorite motif, the rose. Dr. Lisa Airan and Vanity Fair’s Alexis Bryan sashayed up the Met’s grand entrance staircase in vintage pieces created by the man himself.

While several guests opted for Poiret-inspired headbands, there were few signs of another Poiret staple, the turban, which was most recently seen on the catwalk at Prada’s Spring/Summer 2007 show. “I don’t understand why more people are not wearing it,” said designer Rachel Roy, who left her turban at home for evening. “They are the best party pieces since they really get people talking.”

Even without the presence of turbaned guests, there was plenty to talk about during cocktail hour and dinner afterwards. The lavish deco, caged peacocks and Jennifer Hudson’s performance provided enough fodder to last the entire evening and perhaps, the days that followed as well.

The Poiret: King of Fashion exhibition is on at the Met from May 9, 2007–August 5, 2007

www.metmuseum.org

Labels: , , , , , , , , ,

Some Enchanted Evening: Scarlett Johansson Leads Louis Vuitton's Love Toast

Fabiola Beracasa, Tinsley Mortimer

Scarlet Johansson

“With all the flashbulbs going off, I started to wonder which film I’d been in,” joked Fabiola Beracasa of the red carpet scrum outside Louis Vuitton’s cocktail soirée to celebrate its spring Love Collection in New York last Thursday night.

The socialite was amongst the starry arrivals, which included tennis ace Serena Williams, REM’s Michael Stipe, actresses Alex Kingston and Scarlett Johansson, who played co-host with LV’s North America president, Daniel Lalonde. There was also a solid showing of ASW members including Antoine Arnault, Gustaf Demarchelier, Amanda Hearst, Genevieve Jones, Julia Restoin - Roitfeld, Eric Villency, Alvin Valley, Susan Shin, Fabian Basabe, Hud Morgan, Daniel Benedict, and Lauren Goodman.

Kipton Cronkite, Olivia Palermo Arden Wohl Byrdie Bell

Gustaf Demarchelier, Fabiola Beracasa, Fabian Basabe

Michael Stipe

Amanda Hearst

Carlos Mota, Zani Gugelmann

Daniel Lalonde, Scarlett Johansson, Antoine Arnault

While the snappers and curious onlookers created a frenzied sidewalk jam, the mood was serene inside the store. An “enchanted garden” makeover made “it look like Midsummer Night’s Dream in here,” said Cinema Society’s Andrew Saffir as he surveyed the space, which was festooned with pastel paper flowers, “And I could be Puck!” Performances by New York City Opera guest soprano Kerry Walsh, who wore white angel wings, only heightened the evening’s surreal feel.

In between clinking cocktails and sipping champagne, guests eyed up the Love Collection, which includes tote bags and tank tops bearing the Love logo in delicate embroidery by Lesage, the Parisian atelier famed for its couture work.

The love theme extended beyond the clothes since the reception was also held in support of Oxfam America. Johansson, an ambassador for the charity, was not about to let anyone forget the cause. The actress, who wore a 1950s-style strapless dress from LV, was heard passionately outlining the organization’s work to guests throughout the evening.

- Sabine Heller

Labels: , , , ,

New York Fashion Week F/W 2007: Designers To Watch For

Vena Cava venacavanyc.com

Uniquely designed prints and vintage inspired silhouettes represent the Vena Cava signature look, which is often described as being grown up yet never stuffy. The 25 year-old Brooklyn-based California natives have been designing together since their graduation from Parsons in 2003.

Lisa Mayock and Sophie Buhai describe their style as “sensitive and modest with the objective to illuminate the person instead of the article. We want women to feel like they are wearing a special family heirloom handed down from a graceful mother.”

The duo has been featured in Vogue and Harpers Bazaar and count actress Maggie Gyllenhaal as a fan of their soft touch: “There’s a maturity to Vena Cava and a thoughtfulness that appeals to women young and old,” she says. Jean Muir and Faye Dunaway in Chinatown inspired their fall 2007 collection.

Vena Cava


Ruffian ruffian.com

Ruffian combines the traditions and materials of couture with the reality of the contemporary woman. Design team Brian Wolk and Claude Morais have cited cinema repertoire, European court culture and Frank Lloyd Wright’s falling water blueprints (which where embellished on an indigo georgette shift for their spring 2007 collection) as inspiration. Also apparent is Brian’s training in costume design and his experience designing for film, theatre and opera, which he counts as integral to his creative process. Claude’s background in fine arts and his travels as a model and stylist complete the pair’s aesthetic, which juxtaposes the improvised and the studied.

For Spring 2007 they showed full hand tailored pants in opulent fabrics and tops with dramatic stiff waxed cotton sleeves that decorated the neckline. They have collaborated on projects for design houses and designers including Chanel, Julian Macdonald and Maggie Norris and aim to “create clothes that not only inspire a mood or conversation but stimulate the style an individual presents when they present themselves.”

Sari Gueron

Sari Gueron sarigueron.com

Cool girl of the new wave of young designers, Sari Gueron’s always laidback romance infused clothes have become the choice of both the uptown and downtown sets.

After years of apprenticing with John Galliano in Paris and working with Oscar De la Renta in New York, the Israeli born RISD graduate emerged with her first collection of just 13 clean lined dresses in 2004. She has since gone on to show standout collections, while each season perfecting her nonchalant elegance. Actresses Gretchen Mol and Natalie Portman wear Sari Gueron and style icon Sofia Coppola graces her front row.

For her spring 2007 collection, which many tout as her best to date, Gueron drew on her studies of children’s Victorian clothes and Asian dress. She showed short kimono jackets, and loose yellow dresses that were paired with Birkenstocks and long breezy gowns. Fragile poplin, crinkled silk chiffon and patterned jacquard helped solidify the collection’s low key yet avant-garde tone.

Brian Reyes brianreyes.com

Brian Reyes launched his first collection in 2004 to widespread media attention and critical acclaim with a style that combines romantic sentiment and a true sense of elegance. The 27-year-old Columbian american previously worked as an assistant to Ralph Lauren, Michael Kors, and Oscar De La Renta.

His Fall 2007 collection was inspired by a time when jazz and blues once flourished in New York City. It featured timeless silhouettes of simple lines with muted colors that emitted a smokey glow and a bold spirit. British Vogue called it “one of the most tactile collections of the season.” As is his signature elegance, the cool contrasting tones and crisp lines came together to create a refined self-confidence. It was an ode to women’s expressive powers.

Reyes continues to further this aesthetic philosophy by embracing women’s chameleonic nature. “In today’s world women are free to express the many ways they feel through their personal style” explains the designer. Appropriately, Cate Blanchet and Beyonce, who are always true to their personal style, are Reyes fans.

Erin Featherston

ISSA

Bruce

Erin Featherston erinfeatherston.com

“A flower sprouting from a sidewalk in an urban environment” is how 25-year-old Erin Featherston describes her ideal costumer. It can also be said she is one who lives to dress up and relishes in girlish romance. After graduating from the Parsons program in Paris, the Berkley born designer created a couture collection, which lead to her debut ready-to-wear line in Paris for Spring 2005.

She has a following of young starlets, which include Zooey Deschanel and Kirsten Dunst. Dunst, who Featherston met at a Paris party, starred in the short film, Wendybird, directed by photographer Ellen Von Undwerth and attended her Fall 2006 show. “ Erin actually has a vision, where so many people copy things. She has an appreciation of fabric and quality. And she has a story behind everything she does, “ asserts the film’s star.

For spring 2007, Featherston showed a collection of flower themed frocks worn by models with daisy chains in their hair. There were waffty trapeze dresses, flower shaped bell skirts embroidered with petals and a pink organza minidress with crinkle pedaled flower appliqués. “I was always in love with clothes, with playing dress up and manipulating outfits” says the ethereal designer.

Issa

Issa London designer Danielle Helyel started her line in 2001 out of a need to find dresses that “can be worn from the beach to the office and then onto the red carpet”. The London based Brazilian born Helyel quickly became known for her very wearable soft silk jersey dresses that were snapped up by the likes of Madonna and Scarlett Johansen.

“It’s all about versatility,” explains the designer who put on her spring 2007 collection in New York after several seasons showing during London fashion week. That season she also launched a line of Issa London accessories including hats, handbags and shoes. Issa London has been named by British Vogue as one of the hottest items to own and has been featured in Elle, the New York Times, and Vogue.

Bruce

The recently re-launched collection from Bruce continues where they left off with a design aesthetic that stems from the integrity of making garments that have a personal touch, detail, or shape which sometimes calls for a closer look.

Designers Nicole Noselli and Daphne Gutierrez, both 34, first debuted in 1998 and went on to receive CFDA’s Perry Ellis Award for Emerging Talent in Womenswear in 2001. They established a cult following of downtown sophisticates wanting their masterly draped dresses that combined function with femininity. In 2004, Bruce closed its doors returning two years later to what Vogue calls “its moody sweet label.” Creating a lasting product that is special to the wearer and evokes a subtle elegance remains the Bruce objective.

Their concepts are based on strict attention to each piece, in design, fit, construction and quality. The design duo’s last collection included silk crepe dresses, high waisted trousers and a suede bomber jacket. The low key duo prefer to remain elusive, while letting their clothes have the spotlight.

— Sarah Costello

Labels: , , , , , , , , , ,

Purple Madness: The Purple Fashion Party, 2007

Juergen Teller and Helmut Lang

Juergen Teller and Helmut Lang

New York’s newest and hippest hot spot, Beatrice Inn, is owned by Paul Sevigny, (DJ and brother of Chloe Sevigny), Andre (Love Graffiti artist) and Matt Bromchec (part owner of the downtown hangout Employees Only). Since opening, Beatrice Inn has played host to a plethora of avant-guard gatherings, from V Magazine’s Halloween bash to Proenza Schouler’s fall 2007 after party. The recent Purple Magazine soiree – held in collaboration with the Villency Emerging Fashion Fund - was no exception.

The fête drew some fashion heavyweights, including the reclusive Helmut Lang, and photography legends Juergen Teller and Terry Richardson. Olivier Zham, Purple’s eccentric editor- in- chief, graciously mingled with guests, who included fashion royalty Bee Shaffer, Julia Restoin-Roitfeld, Alexis Bryan, Meredith Melling Burke and Hamish Bowles. New York scenesters in attendance were Waris Ahluwalia and Chiara Clemente, Rebecca Guiness, Karen Duffy, Brian Wolk and Claude Morais of Ruffian, Kate Shelter, Elisa Lipsky-Karasz, Eric Villency, and Kimberly Guilfoyle. Girl about town Byrdie Bell arrived on the arm of her boyfriend Bingo Gubelman, after having held a lunch with Annie Churchill for Tadashi and later hosting the Philosphy Di Alberta Ferretti fall/winter 2007 presentation.

Paz de la Huerta, Olivier Zham and Terry Richardson Kimberly Guifoyle and Eric Villency Lou Doillon and Andre

Paz de la Huerta, Olivier Zham
and Terry Richardson

Kimberly Guifoyle
and Eric Villency

Lou Doillon
and Andre

Olympia Scarry

Olympia Scarry

As the New York social set mingled under Beatrice’s low ceilings, plush couches, and laid back sitting rooms, their west coast and British counterparts made their presence known. Ultra hip duo Victoria and Vanessa Traina held court by the fireplace, while Olympia Scarry (granddaughter of children's book illustrator Richard Scarry) made her New York fashion week rounds before heading back to London. Greg K from the MisShapes spun retro hits, creating a lively atmosphere for guests to enjoy Pravda’s cocktail made especially for the Beatrice, aptly named 'the 12th street'. The party continued late into the night, and included an appearance by Mary-Kate Olsen, who spent the evening canoodling with Max Snow in the back room, avoiding photographers.

— Kate Hindin

Photos - © Billy Farrel & © Patrick McMullan

Labels: , , , , , , ,