Thursday, March 27, 2008

Sister Act-Melina and Jessica Solnicki

Interview

When and how did you become members of ASW?

Melina: September 2004
Jessica: All my friends from around the world began to talk to me about it and I was invited.

What is your favorite site-feature on ASW?

M: The beautiful pictures of all my friends on the site!
J: The way you are able to get advice from cosmopolitan people telling you about different places to visit.

What separates your collection from all the other collections out there?

M & J: Our collection is very eclectic and fun! We always try to infuse our personalities into our designs. We are constantly inspired to make new pieces – we created the first leather jackets made with elastics and ruching and everyone loved them! When we arrived in New York [for sales], we had the jacket and a pair of simple pants offered in a variety of 60 bright colors. They were a huge success and put us on the map. Our very first editorial was the cover of Black Book with stylish Cate Blanchett wearing our ruched leather jacket. We want to make women feel different, sexy, have fun, look colorful and flatter all body types.

How is Argentinean style different from that of, say, New York, London or Paris?

M & J: We feel Argentinean women are between the classy, refined, intellectual Parisian and the sexy, cool, urban, hip New York gal. Think a blend of Carrie and Charlotte from Sex in the City. We feel the Argentineans are very aware of their appearance and their look is very thought-out as opposed to the more relaxed look we found in elegant Europeans. But the Argentinean woman has a very sexual appeal and is very aware of her body and curves. Her look is very much a consequence of the obsession in our society to always look very hot hot hot!!

When and why did you decide to launch a clothing collection?

M & J: We are very much girlie girls and loved fashion at a young age. I studied at Parsons and Jessica pursued architecture. After our studies we were constantly brainstorming up what we wanted to wear but could not find in Argentina. We decided to take the risk and make pieces ourselves but when Argentina experienced its worst economic crisis, we decided go to New York and launched in 2002.

You have three stores in Argentina. Any plans to open elsewhere? What is your ideal location?

M & J: We opened last summer in Punta del Este and it was a huge success. Super model Eva Herzigova was among the many personalities who shopped at our store. We love to seek out locations that are less commercial; a place where international travelers and jet-setters could go to shop and find the perfect pieces from day to night without having to leave town. We are also planning to open a store in Mexico City. We definitely plan to expand and continue to open boutiques worldwide.

You had your first show in Los Angeles this past season, which was quite special. Can you tell us what happened?

M & J: We were initially scheduled to show on Monday, March 19th, but because of the storm in New York, the collection did not make it in time and, ironically, there was an opening on my birthday, Thursday, March 22.

It was very emotional for me. I was surprised and touched when all 18 models paraded at the end of the show each carrying a cake with candles. It created a very magical moment for our first show. We always want to stand out and be different and we want all women to embrace and express their own uniqueness as we do.

City?

Melina: NYC!!
Jessica: Buenos Aires

Travel Destination?

Melina: South of France, Portofino, St Barths, Formentera and all the exotic places in the world!
Jessica: Punta del Este

Hotel?

Melina: Hôtel du Cap, Cap d’Antibes
Jessica: Palais Royal in Deauville (during the cinema festival period)

Restaurant?

Melina: Under the beautiful sky full of stars, Marismo in Punta del Este
Jessica: l´Orangerie (Courchevel)

Museum or gallery?

Melina: The Vatican in Rome
Jessica: Centre Pompidou, Paris

Film?

Melina: Character
Jessica: Cinema Paradiso

Book?

Melina: Autobiographies of my favorite artists – Frida Kahlo, Pablo Picasso, Marie Antoniette, Coco Chanel and many more.
Jessica: Kane and Abel by Jeffrey Archer

Cause? Which one and why?

Melina: I believe in any charity that raises money for a good cause and that helps the less fortunate. Ideally, I would love someday to create a proper orphanage for children in Argentina.
Jessica: Handicapped people without legs or arms. We want to help them by providing prosthetic arms and legs so they can live life to the fullest. 10% of our revenue goes towards this cause.

Artist?

Melina: Frida Kahlo; her pain and suffering are very vivid in her paintings.
Jessica: Mies van der Rohe (architect)

Historical figure? Why?

Melina: Moses and Abraham, for being such important influences in the Jewish tradition.
Jessica: Golda Meir. I think the world should be ruled by women.

Bar?

Melina: Harry’s Bar, Venice
Jessica: Le Baron, Paris

Gadget?

Melina: I cannot live without my Mac, iPod, and Blackberry
Jessica: My piano

Shop?

Melina: Charlotte Solnicki in Punta del Este and Buenos Aires!
Jessica: Colette, Paris

Drink?

Melina: Caipiroska baby!!
Jessica: Baileys on the rocks.

Top 3 songs?

Melina: ‘Corcovao du Ipanema’ – Astroud Gilberto
‘The Mission’ – Itzhak Perlman
‘You’ll Never Find Another Love Like Mine’ – Michael Buble
Jessica: ‘Ave Maria’ – Bach
‘Nocturne’ – Chopin
‘Hello’ – The Doors


—- Erin Skrypek

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Wednesday, March 26, 2008

A Night Fit for a Queen

Fabiola Beracasa, Tinsley Mortimer

Fabiola Beracasa, Tinsley Mortimer

If clinking glasses in a setting of leopard print Louis XV furniture, pastel-colored macaroons and a set of landed gentry with ringlet wigs to match the macaroons sounds a bit too hedonistically “Marie Antoinette” for you, then perhaps you wouldn’t have enjoyed the decadence of last week’s grand soiree held at the Museum of the City of New York.
However a small selection of New York society types gleefully indulged themselves at the flamboyant, 18th century-esque dinner prepared by Daniel Boulud.

Amidst the champagne crowd were many ASW members including Susan Shin, Fabiola Beracasa, Olivia Palermo, Arden Wohl, Kipton Cronkite, Euan Rellie, Zani Gugelmann, Patty Raynes, Lily Rafii, Byrdie Bell, Tracy Stern, Brook Hazelton, Lisa Anastos and Alexandra Lind Rose.

Kipton Cronkite, Olivia Palermo Arden Wohl Byrdie Bell

Kipton Cronkite, Olivia Palermo

Arden Wohl

Byrdie Bell

Carlos Mota, Zani Gugelmann

Carlos Mota, Zani Gugelmann

While the dress code for the evening was characterized as “hot couture,” many guest took it upon themselves to go “white hot,” celebrating the beginning of spring by cladding themselves in nearly white gowns and cocktail dresses. Amongst the ladies in white were Tinsley Mortimer, Cristina Greeven Cuomo, Mrs. Rose, Ms. Bell, Ms. Palermo and Ms. Gugelmann, who opted for a floor-grazing J. Mendel gown.

Other guests chose to classify the dress code in other ways, Ms. Wohl, for example, became a vibrant flapper in vintage Lacroix, her trademark headpiece comprised of a band of velvet. Ms. Beracasa, who chose a trailing, stained-glass print gown with ostrich feathers at the neck, also looked part flapper thanks to the black-feathered hairpiece she had adorning her hair.

However bespoke the look, guests enjoyed the grandeur of the atmosphere.

- Erin Skrypek

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Paris Fashion Week F/W 2007: Save The Best for Last

It's the final week of fashion month and, as they say, the best is often saved for last. As we all know, Paris is known for fashion and it rarely disappoints. The Autumn/Winter 07/08 prêt-a-porter collections, which opened on Sunday, February 25th with Balmain and Rick Owens, kicked off the week.

Rick Owens

Rick Owens

Corto Moltedo

Corto Moltedo

But the best is still yet to come. The fashion world has been holding its breath for its darlings, many of whom aren't even French, but whose names have become synonymous with French fashion: Karl Lagerfeld (German) for Chanel, Marc Jacobs (American) for Louis Vuitton, Albar Elbaz (Israeli) for Lanvin and Stefano Pilati (Italian) for Yves Saint Laurent. Nicolas Ghesquiére is the only Frenchman in charge of a French house, Balenciaga, which was created by the Spanish/Basque-born Cristóbal Balenciaga in Paris 70 years ago.

Balmain

Balmain


Okay, so those all those names are a given, but who else is the fashion world murmuring about?

David Szeto — fashion's best-kept secret. And, no, he's not French either, he's from Canada, but has been living in Paris for the past 16 years, so he's more Parisian than most of the transplanted designers mentioned above — except, of course, for Mr. Lagerfeld, but that's only because he has a few decades on him.

Mr. Szeto is mostly a secret because, unlike his powdered-haired peer (and most of the "designers" these days), he doesn't seek out the limelight. His molded, folded, tucked and technically complicated designs are the product of many a late night in the atelier draping, knotting and pinning out different fabrications on his mannequin forms rather than posing for the paparazzi. He's just interested in making beautiful clothes that are original and interesting — new without being futuristic and weird. Mr. Szeto will be presenting his collection Under the Influence on March 4th.

So what will Mr. Szeto be Style.com-ing this week when he has time: "Balenciaga and Comme de Garcons..." he told ASW, but he admits his curiosity will probably have to wait to be indulged until after the 4th.

While Mr. Szeto is editing down his looks for Sunday afternoon, Erin Fetherston, another Paris-based (but American-born) designer can relax a bit and actually attend some shows — she already showed her whimsically cool collection a few weeks ago in New York. Who's shows is she looking forward to seeing? "All my friends," the buoyant, flaxen-haired designer told ASW at Ferdi, a tiny little tapas restaurant. "Haider Ackermann...some of the Japanese designers like Keita Maruyama, Junko Shumado and Tsumori Chisato. I'm also interested to see what the new designer at Chloe (Swede Paulo Melim Andersso) is doing — he came from Marni. And also Miu Miu."

Additionally, Miss Fetherston mentioned she'll be stopping by to see a vernissage at the Bon Marché, which features portraits of fashion people — her friend photographer Ellen von Unwerth is the poster-girl for the exhibition. Apparently supporting your friends is very in this season.

As is Corto Moltedo's collection of handbags. While fashion week in Paris is clearly clothes-centric, there are plenty of accessories to sort through as well, and this is a collection many editors won't be skimming over. Mr. Moltedo's parents founded Bottega Veneta back in the '70's, so his knowledge of leather goods and Italian style were pretty muchimbued at birth. His namesake line is indulgent with its bling-y gold star and "C" hardware and its range of ultra-modern shapes, but the real luxury is hidden in the details — think built in mirrors, a little slot for your credit card and a cell-phone-sized pocket inside each purse.

Mr. Moltedo says he's looking forward to seeing Viktor & Rolf, "It's always a surprise with them..." Last season the Dutch designers gave the audience a special little treat — a live performance by Rufus Wainwright as an array of sequined and mirrored ensembles worthy of "Dancing with the Stars" twinkled their way down the runway.

Erin Skrypek

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Fashion: Prada, Marni and Beyond

Of the four fashion capitals, Milan is the most brand-centric. If you think about the Italian fashion houses, logos like inverted “G”s, red plastic strips that read “Prada,” interlocking Fendi “F”s, D&G hardware and blinged out Versace “V”s come to mind, as do the signature styles of Armani, Missoni, Marni and Pucci. Milan is not the place where one thinks of young, struggling, up-and-coming designers.


Evrim Timur

But this season there seems to be a shift in Milano Moda Donna – or Milan Fashion Week – which officially kicked off its Autumn/Winter 2007/2008 collections on Saturday, February 17th. Its first full day was entirely dedicated to promising young designers like Andres Caballero, Francesca Marchisio, Maria Teresa Mazzoni, Evrim Timur and Maria Elena Piro, who are all winners of the NEXT GENERATION competition that supports on-the-rise Italian designers.

But even if there are a lot of newbies in Milan this season, it’s still the maestros everyone is looking forward to seeing. Donatella Versace has been blowing back the hair of everyone from New York Times’ fashion writer (and conservative dresser) Cathy Horyn to not-so-conservative dressers like Christina Aguilera, Scarlett Johannson and basically the rest of Hollywood, since she cleaned up her act in the past year. Her show is definitely one of the more anticipated.


Maria Elena Piro

“I always look forward to seeing Prada and Marni,” admits Godfrey Deeny, another highly respected show reviewer and industry insider, “Miuccia is still the single most influential designer - bar none - and her shows are both sexy and brainy. I love the way women look in Marni - so many of the fashionistas wear Marni, I sometimes think it’s the best-dressed audience in the world.”

That said, there is also something new Mr. Deeny - and much of the industry – is looking forward to: Giles Deacon’s debut for Daks. Mr. Deacon, who showed his eponymous collection Giles in London this past week, is “very hot” right now, as Mr. Deeny described. He said Mr. Deacon draws “the right crowd, very exclusive, practically no photographers… they even banned Canal Plus” at his London show. Any hype like that, alongside the fact Mr. Deacon is the new designer for the distinguished Daks house, which established their bespoke tailoring factory in the United Kingdom in 1894, is sure to be a hot ticket.

As, of course, is the super-exclusive party Saks Fifth Avenue, The Wall Street Journal and Camera Nazionale della Moda Italiana is throwing on at Palazzo Reale on February 19th. One of the many fashion week parties where plenty of intelligent Marni will mix with the more typically “overt” Italian ensembles that will undoubtedly include a healthy quantity of interlocked “F”s, blinged out “V”s and D&G hardware.

Viva Italia…

— Erin Skrypek



Evrim Timur


Maria Elena Piro

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